Reloading 101 - Part 2, Tooling: Case Preparation Tools

 Reloading 101 - Part 2, Tooling: Case Preparation Tools

I hope everyone had a Happy Thanksgiving and stuffed their faces and bellies with delicious food!

With anything in reloading, there is a huge variety of tools for every step. This is a great thing because there are so many options. Most of the tools have the same features but it's also important to know what need versus wants.

My own opinion is the powered options are the best, but your wallet may say otherwise. I personally started with a smaller powered option (figure 1) and purchased a set of manual tools (figure 2) as well. I'm not saying that you need to go small, but since I was still learning, I figured I can always invest in larger if my needs outgrew the initial purchase. The great thing about the Hornady and RCBS handle is the threading on the screw size for the bits are the same, so you can attach the chamfer and deburring bits on the RCBS handle and vice versa.

Figure 1

Figure 2

It has been a little over 4 years since I started reloading and the only reason, I am considering replacing my Hornady Lock-N-Load case prep trio is because I think it would be easier to have the case prep bits vertical over horizontal; only for ergonomics. Lyman offers a vertical option - the Case Prep Xpress, see below. Both the Hornady and Lyman prep centers are a reasonable price at $153-$168. RCBS has an option at $219 with a variable speed but it looks like its cramped in comparison to the Lyman option.

Another tool you will need that isn't usually included in many case prep centers is a trimmer. The only option I know of is the Frankford Arsenal case prep and trim center. My only grip with this unit is it being vertical (it has a kickstand so it's not completely horizontal) and the screw points for the bits seem pretty clustered together.

I am using the Lyman Universal case trimmer. The rim size has a universal fitment and comes with 9 different pilots ranging from .17 to .458. It is very affordable, and I don't think a powered trimmer is really necessary. Inline Fabrications also makes an Ultramount adapter plate for this.

In my time reloading, I found that not all cases will expand and won't require trimming. I found the easiest way to setup the length on the trimmer is to first reference your reloading data, check the caliber you are reloading for, and find a case that hasn't expanded to use as your guide.

For example, if I am reloading for 6.5 Creedmoor, I will reference my reloading data, sometimes cross referencing three sources (Modern Reloading by Lee, Hornady, and the Lyman reloading manual) - Modern reloading calls for a length of the brass to be 1.920"

While inspecting and sorting through my 6.5 Creedmoor brass, I will occasionally pick up a brass case and measure using the calipers, if I find one that is 1.920", I will use it to set the length on my trimmer. After setting the length I will do a test trim and measure

Some of you may question why you need to trim and is it that much of a big deal. It is a must! If you don't trim your brass to proper length, the cartridge may have chambering issues, and you can potentially run into over-pressuring which is a disaster waiting to happen. Don't be lazy about this step.

Update:

I realized when I woke up this morning that I left out a critical piece of tooling for the case preparation - Calipers. You can go with analog (figure 1) or digital (figure 2), there are arguments for both, but in the end, I feel that it's more preference. I personally like digital.

Figure 1

Figure 2

I bought a simple pair from Home Depot for $35.97, their Husky brand. Just like with any tool, they vary in a wide range of price. I've seen Japanese calipers that go for $150, is it really necessary? I don't believe so.

I feel that no beginner reloader should attempt annealing but I always like to provide information.

What is annealing you ask? In the most basic explanation, it extends the life on your brass. You only really need to anneal necked brass. If you pick up some range brass you may see that it is slightly discolored by the neck, see below. 

There are many different methods to anneal brass, but the two main methods are by way of direct heat (figure 1) or induction (figure 2). Some people apply direct heat by using a torch, but the best way is to use an automated system. I have said this before, anything you can do to remove the extra variable of errors, should be taken. Automated units are timed right to prevent overcooking and have controlled position of the torch or depth of the induction coil. Errors with these two things could be disastrous. You can end up with hot gases in your face, or in extreme cases your gun exploding like a grenade. 

If you are handy, you may be able to construct your own. I've seen people who have made their own annealing units in either the direct heat or induction variety. The direct heat ones were constructed with microwave turn table motors, round metal stock, cake rounds, extra scrap wood, and other miscellaneous items. I've seen induction annealers made with a good length of heavy-duty copper wire, 24 Volt/15 Amp power supply, 5-36V timer/relay board, momentary switch, and ZVS board.

Figure 1 - Direct heat using an Annealeez machine

Figure 2 - Induction